martijn van strien‘s initiative and experimental but diverse collections have an attractive simplicity that hides a complexity of intellectualisms. borne from historical reference, the neo-medievalist collection ‘threads for cockaigne’ explores some new applications of iconic wear. my favourite however is his latest ‘dystopian brutalist outerwear’ in which a defensive design ethos combines a sharp silhouette with utilitarian fabric. the futuristic retro element is dictated by architectural references and inspired by a protective idealism from beyond some apocalyptic landscape. through both of these collection and their limited pieces, van strien maintains an approach of measured control and focus which allows the more subtle aspects of his work to become apparent.

images - imke ligthart